The role of traditional plant-based handicrafts in biodiversity conservation
By Eduarda Bastian
In recent years, it is possible to observe a much needed increase in the appreciation of traditional handicrafts, mainly for its cultural and economic value. However, besides contributing greatly to social and economic sustainability, it is often forgotten that the crafts carried out by different traditional communities worldwide play an essential role in biodiversity conservation and genetic diversity, especially of fibrous and dye plants.
Human beings have been using natural feedstocks, such as plant fibers, for centuries - for various applications. Practices that used to be basic household activities (although filled with significant cultural meanings and traditions), such as basketry and traditional weaving, are now important sources of income for many communities. The income made from selling traditional crafts is the main source of income for many indigenous families (especially women) and other traditional communities. Most of this work used to be made (and still is, by many, however less than before) entirely from local plants, found close to the villages. The traditional ecological knowledge held by those communities is responsible for plant management methods that are able to preserve species used for craft making. Sustainable harvest and management is embedded in the practice, and responsible for maintaining many species into existence. This type of knowledge is resultant from the deep ancestral connection between those artisans and their natural environment, coming from a deep ecology perspective, where humans are not above other beings - but an equal part of Nature.
Resulting from years of craftsmanship devalorization, colonization and the emergence of plastic based fibers, many artisans have been using synthetic fibers to produce their products. Consumer complaints about price (“too high”) and differences in the products (different shades, colors and other expected differences for handmade products) has led craft workers to start using more standardized fibers and colors, in order to keep selling and guaranteeing an income. Consequently, local plants used for craft making started to be left aside, as the artisans started buying their feedstock elsewhere. This lack of management for such plants has proven to be risky for biodiversity, as traditional management is responsible for the continuation of many species and important ancestral cultivars.
An article from 2023 highlights the case of the Sea Island cotton (Gossypium barbadense) from the Brazilian Cerrado and Amazon, which is a domesticated cotton species with longer fibers than G. hirsutum [1]. According to research findings, the species is conserved in the region mainly by hand spinners. Furthermore, the practice of managing and extracting the fibers for handspinning is also favoring cotton breeding for longer fibers. This also brings attention to the importance of the existence of seed banks to preserve genetic diversity focused on fiber traits. Still according to the article, G. barbadense genetic diversity is conserved mainly by traditional agricultures who are currently discontinuing agricultural practices due to economic changes. In situ conservation is also extremely important for the continuation of different varieties [1].
Therefore, in addition to species conservation, the traditional management of fibrous plants is responsible for maintaining plant cultivars favorable to good fiber yield and quality. In other words, artisan communities working with native plant fibers have been responsible for the continuation of plant cultivars that contain better fibers to work with. However, due to many factors that include climate change, deforestation, plant domestication focused on other traits, and also craftsmanship depreciation, those important cultivars may disappear completely - and some already have. According to hemp researcher Git Skoglund [2], hemp varieties used to produce fine hemp textiles in the past, are now extinct. In many cases, fibrous plant varieties closer to their wild form are the ones with finer quality fiber. The conservation of ancestral and landrace varieties of fibrous plants is essential to the continuation of cultivars useful for finer textiles/applications. It is also important to note that, in many attempts of upscaling the production of fibrous plants based on its use by traditional communities, different varieties are used, leading to different results.
Linen from buriti palm (a palm tree in the Amazon, Brazil), dyed with natural colorants from local plants.
Linen from buriti palm (a palm tree in the Amazon, Brazil), dyed with natural colorants from local plants.
A fine example of sustainable management of fibrous plants and conservation of traditional heritage is the case of the new-zealand-flax used by Maori communities. The Maori have developed traditional methods of harvesting the Phormium tenax (traditionally called Harakeke) plant that guarantees the continuation of the species. They have also developed and perfected knowledge related to different applications for different varieties (i.e: a certain variety is more applicable to basket making, and another to textile making) [3]. This knowledge is often passed through generations, mostly via ancestral sayings [4]. This also highlights the importance of protecting traditional ecological knowledge towards more sustainable plant management methods - something that is often left aside by modern ecological research and different industries.
Used traditionally for the production of crafts and other applications, the buriti (Mauritia flexuosa) population in Brazil is also maintained by traditional communities that hold specific knowledge about fiber extraction and in situ species conservation. The defense of buritizais occurs mainly due to the existence of associations, which collectively discuss and create rules regarding the use and occupation of land and the exploitation of natural resources [5].
Material sourcing has been shown to be a relevant concern in many different markets - from both synthetic and natural origins. It is a common misconception that any natural feedstock, such as plant fibers, remains sustainable regardless of its cultivation and processing method. We often see innovators and different industries interested in scaling up the production of plant fibers used by traditional communities, when observed its sustainability potential. However, much of the sustainable aspects of craft work with plant fibers is related to the way the feedstock is managed and processed - which is very different from fibers grown and processed on an industrial scale.
It is clear that traditional ecological knowledge is essential to the sustainable management of plant resources used for handicrafts, as well as for the preservation of species and genetic variety. The ancestral knowledge related to sustainable management practices is strongly related to worldviews where Nature is utterly respected, and fibrous plants are carefully handled, respecting the plant's natural cycle and availability. The appreciation, development and protection of traditional craft making is, therefore, directly related to biodiversity conservation, and should become priority in cultural projects and policies connected to Nature preservation.
[5] DUTRA, Laura; NERI, Ana Carolina. A Tradição do Uso da Fibra do Buriti (Mauritia flexuosa L. F., ARECACEAE): Percepção Ambiental e Saberes de Coletores e Artesãos na Região dos Lençóis Maranhenses, MA. 70ª Reunião Anual da SBPC,Julho de 2018 - UFAL, Maceió, AL.